With the lights drawn low he lit a row of shot glasses and the blue flames quivered in the darkness. Then poof, he blew a bright orange flame like a miniature magic dragon, captivating the audience. With one deft swipe Campbell knocked the flaming shots into pint glasses, which had been drizzled with blueberry syrup then filled with Ellicottville Blueberry Wheat Beer. When light was restored, the audience was caught between awe and a buzz of excitement. Campbell Dawson’s Ellicottville Blueberry Cheesecake was enough to earn the title of “perfect drink” at the first annual Evening of Cocktail Creations, which took place on Saturday December fifth at the Grape Discovery Center in Westfield, NY. The night featured local beer, wine, and spirits that were crafted into novel cocktails by some of the region’s finest mixologists.
Dawson’s showmanship was the highlight of the beer round which followed the initial wine round of the competition. The competition consisted of three rounds: wine, beer, and spirits of the Lake Erie region were featured. After each round the judges tasted each of their drinks. In the final round the contestants were given a mystery ingredient, which each bartender had to six minutes to use in the creation of an original cocktail.
The competition was tight as each of the contestants brought their A-game. Campbell Dawson offered comic relief and dazzled the crowd with flair bartending. Andrew Dunnewold was soft-spoken but he quietly turned out interesting beverages that elicited nods of approval from the judges and guests. However, Nick Dean seemed to be operating on another level. I have seen him do his thing at Forte and I enjoy his blog, Frontier Mixology. But I did not appreciate what a unique talent he possesses until I saw it showcased at Saturday night’s competition.
The meticulous preparation he went through for the event was evident from the wide range of special supplies that contributed to his right to be referred to as “Cocktail Creator Extraordinaire.” For example, he brought in wood chips and roasted them to add smoky notes to his “Lawyers, Guns and Money.” The drink was a tip of the hat to Warren Zevon. The cocktail featured simple syrup that Nick made from Five & 20 Spirits and Brewing’s Brown Ale. The carefully crafted concoction had a dash of Angostura bitters as well as Fee Brothers bitters, a nod to Rochester’s prominent bitters tradition. Nick informed the fine guests at the Grape Discovery Center that Fee Brothers was one of only three companies to continuously make bitters since Prohibition. Garnished with an orange wedge and featuring Five & 20 Rye Whiskey the drink was reminiscent of an Old Fashioned but had much more depth than any I had ever encountered.
While mixing another round of smoke-kissed cocktails he proceeded to tell us how bitters are the bartender’s salt and pepper, and he then continued to season the presentation with his knowledge of the history of cocktails. He masterfully did what every great bartender does; acting as a host who is facilitating the party, drawing people into a broader conversation that allows them to feel at home while effortlessly making drinks. Every great bartender must do this while thinking about seven other things that should have been done five minutes ago; those of us who have worked in the industry have a great deal of respect for anyone who can manage this difficult task.
More amazing than his initial refreshing cocktail, made out of grape Pop Rocks candy and Vetter Vineyard’s Rose—two things that I almost never consume on their own—was how he ended the competition. The challenge was to integrate a mystery ingredient. While his competitors struggled to make something palatable, he made what he called the “Westfield Figgy Mule” which featured the “mystery ingredient”: a Wild Fig Balsamic Vinegar. It had hints of spice from the bitters and the distinctive zip of Ginger Beer; it’s a drink that could be consumed in August or December. It was perhaps the most delectable cocktail of the night, invented in six minutes with a component of salad dressing and more than fifty sets of eyes scrutinizing his every move.
The night featured as many local products as possible in the competition as well as delicious food provided for the audience by Andriaccio’s Restaurant. Cakes by Brandy supplied decadent desserts highlighted by a scrumptious Strawberry Daiquiri Cupcake. Andriaccio’s Restaurant put on a beautiful spread with trays being passed featuring tantalizing appetizers; my personal favorite was brie baked in phyllo dough, which was drizzled with concord grape dressing. Multitasking impressively, sommelier Joe Town not only catered the event but also served as a judge offering keen insights about the hospitality industry. He was joined by Jason Toczydlowski of CHQ Local Food, who was articulate on preparation and presentation, as well as Amy Webb for Webb’s Captain’s table who added humor and fresh reflections. Julie Ellis of Lake Erie Wine Country helped anchor the star-studded panel with a bright smile and impressive knowledge of local wine and spirits.
During a break in the action Andy Dufresne, one of the founding board members of the Grape Discovery Center, discussed how critical the grape industry is to economic development of the region. He stressed that the grape industry’s annual impact on New York’s economy is $4.8 billion. Dufresne was warm and eloquent in his presentation. He provided an important perspective on how the role of grapes and local agriculture relate to the state’s economy.
The Westfield Grape Discovery Center’s knowledgeable staff worked seamlessly with a group of volunteers to provide an outstanding evening for everyone involved. All of the guests I spoke with seemed to have a splendid time. Many reflected that they had never been to such an event and were glad that people in our area were collaborating to make occasions like these happen in our region. This was especially exciting since the spirit of the evening was to highlight the bounties of our region and support the fantastic professional bartenders who competed. The unique abilities on display and the tasty local food and drink served as a reminder to us all how much talent there is here at home.
The next event will take place in March and will feature spring wines and maple infused spirits. Stay tuned to The Jovial Journey for more details on the upcoming event. Also, you can always visit www.grapediscoverycenter.com for detailed information on the next event in the series and other exciting experiences.
Loren Mayshark is the award-winning author of Death: An Exploration and Academic Betrayal. For more, you can visit his website lorenmayshark.com and you can keep up with him on Twitter at @LorenMayshark. Sign up for his newsletter and receive regular updates and a free gift.
